Farm to Table

The rain moved off, but it roared before it went. Relentlessly pounding most of the day, there were just a few breaks but it was enough. 

I had wanted to walk through Harvard's campus on a crisp, autumn day. I think I was expecting something compact and recognizable as a campus. Didn't really find that and maybe I didn't know where to look, but a quick drive through the area had me fleeing to Memorial Drive and its riverside ride, hunting for boat houses. We took a quick ride through Boston's historical center and the beautiful Public Gardens, skirted the Boston Commons and felt like we had a taste of the city, enough for this trip.

We headed south, toward Island Creek Oyster Farm in Duxbury. Charlie arranged for a tour of the nursery and it was one of the most interesting couple of hours I've spent in a long time. We learned how baby oysters, or oyster seed, are nourished by the different kinds of algaes in their local waters. Learned how they spawn and can change sexes depending on what is needed. Learned about the role of temperature. Learned about the whole process from seed to harvest. I laughed when I learned these folk call themselves farmers. It makes sense, but it was one of those "I never realized" moments that had me chuckling at myself. From test tubes to dishes to tanks to mesh bags and from laboratory to the bay, the journey from seed to table for a responsibly farmed oyster is fascinating. Threre's environmental impact; the waters are markedly improved as they go about this work. Federal grants support the effort, and still support it.

The raw bar there offers the freshest oysters possible, and they were delicious. They also have the tastiest clam chowder we've tried on the trip. The farm raises clams for its own use in the raw bar and nearby fine dining restaurant it operates. We also saw the caviar packing operation. There must have been hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of caviar in the two small fridges onsite. 

The rain paused long enough for us to walk outside and see the oyster houses on the bay and learn about the outdoor operations, but the skies opened up once again as we got in the car and headed for Cape Cod. We'd planned a stop at Cooke's Seafood in Orleans, about halfway up the cape to share a cup of chowder and a lobster roll. It did not disappoint, but Island Creek continues to hold the title, so far, in our quest for the best New England clam chowder. What I loved about it . . . its light and flavorful broth. There is no heaviness to it. All the flavors are there . . . bacon, corn liquid, clam juice, the delicate notes of the aromatics. The vegetables are beautifully diced and perfectly cooked. The clams are high quality and flavorful. The chowder tastes fresh. Would a food critic agree with my metrics? I have no idea, but I like what I like.

We settled into our AirBnB in Provincetown. A hiccup with our check-in forced us outside to explore the town while the owner took care of the issue. We're staying in a walkable section of town and are near shops, cafes, and restaurants. We thought we would stay in last night but were glad to be out for a little recon around how we want to spend today, exploring the town, the shops, the food scene. Tomorrow is whale watching. The next day we head off. It's just a taste.

Fall-ing in Love: 40 Days of Noticing is a daily writing practice that opens a landscape of discovery into my own human experience.

Katherine Cartwright has been blogging since 2012, and each year brings new wonders. She asks big questions of the small things in life.